I recently acquired a Marconi PS213 ;D. The ebonite base of this key does not extend as far as the knob so for best results it really needs to bolted to the table or a metal base. I see from my new Portishead Radio book (thanks Larry) that the coastal stations used to put them on an aluminium base so I did likewise. Incidentally you can buy cut-to-size aluminium or mild steel on ebay in various thicknesses for modest cost. My 8mm thick aluminium base was cut to the size I wanted and delivered all for £12.
Portishead apparently used rubber on the aluminium bases to stop them slipping. I had one of those rubber anti-slip mats, and although it certainly stopped the key moving it was far too springy and made the handling unpleasantly mushy. I tried firm felt pads instead. This was like putting the key on skates.
The best result by far was with four adhesive feet of very hard rubber. I note Kent supply their keys with hard rubber feet and the central screw makes the feet more unyielding.
Looking at all my keys, I'm convinced the 'best' base for a key (short of bolting it to the desk) is a thick heavy metal base with four very hard rubber feet. I notice on the NATO key the four rubber feet are positioned asymmetrically and not in the corners - perhaps there is a reason for this?
Wooden bases sure look pretty but even the lead-weighted wood of my HK802 is not as solid as a good metal base.
If I was designing The Ultimate Key I'd probably use tungsten for the base - it's denser than steel.
Of course there is always Blu-tak/'earthquake putty'. Messy, but it does hold the key down!
Portishead apparently used rubber on the aluminium bases to stop them slipping. I had one of those rubber anti-slip mats, and although it certainly stopped the key moving it was far too springy and made the handling unpleasantly mushy. I tried firm felt pads instead. This was like putting the key on skates.
The best result by far was with four adhesive feet of very hard rubber. I note Kent supply their keys with hard rubber feet and the central screw makes the feet more unyielding.
Looking at all my keys, I'm convinced the 'best' base for a key (short of bolting it to the desk) is a thick heavy metal base with four very hard rubber feet. I notice on the NATO key the four rubber feet are positioned asymmetrically and not in the corners - perhaps there is a reason for this?
Wooden bases sure look pretty but even the lead-weighted wood of my HK802 is not as solid as a good metal base.
If I was designing The Ultimate Key I'd probably use tungsten for the base - it's denser than steel.
Of course there is always Blu-tak/'earthquake putty'. Messy, but it does hold the key down!
