Kent KT1 Morse Key

[MI0PYN]

I'll go first.

I only have a Kent KT1 at the moment, which is fine as I've not actually had any on-air QSOs yet, being a noob who is still learning the code.

However, it's a heavy, solid key with a lot of adjustment options. I've set it to quite a small spacing at the moment when working with the practice oscillator, so there is little movement and pressure required to key down. I suppose that may change later, depending on how I get on on the air for longer periods of time.

It's definitely not a key to take out portable though, that's for sure!

 

[Ham4CW]

So, is the Kent KT1 Morse Key an early version or one of the later ones?

73, Mark...

 

[MI0PYN]

From looking at pictures on the Kent website, I'd think it's a later one, with the heavy black steel base rather than the wood one. Looks like it was painted with Hammerite (although it's probably powder-coated).

The picture isn't of my key, it's from the website, but it's the same one. Mine is looking a little more "aged", although I don't think I'll bother polishing it as I don't think it makes any difference to the functionality.

 

[Ham4CW]

Spot on!

I took a two photos of the front contact height and the bearing support height, side by side with the newer version in the background.

 

[Ham4CW]

With the extra height the older versions feel very different to the newer type. The arm is upside down on the older ones too, or at least it looks that way. The one you show in the photo looks like my 'missing' one (with the black steel base). I'm sure it's around somewhere!

As for the 'aged' look of yours, it doesn't hurt at all. I could never understand why Kent never nickle plated their Morse Keys, or at least used a lacquer of some sort.

I generally use household amonia to bring the colour back up on the brass. Really bad cases need a soak for a few hours, and agitated with a soft brush. You need to wash the amonia off reall well, then wipe the key over with WD40 or light machine oil so as to preserve the brightness.

73, Mark...

 

[Ham4CW]

Spent most of the evening rebuilding the slate based Kent KT1. It's looking better than it did. Had to clean up the rest of the brasswork as only the arm and pivot support had been previously cleaned.

So it is a slate based Kent Morse Key of the older design. I have still got to redo the wiring under the base and also refit the braided strap that grounds the arm of the key.

I did try a selection of control knobs on the key, but none of them looked correct, so I ended up using the original black plastic one.

When the soldering is done I'll snap another couple of images of the two keys together so that you can see the height difference.

Also, I need to redo the bottom of the base. The wooden based ones have a metal plate covered in green 'baize' and then held on with small rubber feet (or at least the ones here do). I found in the past that if the Morse Key is standing on the feet the entire base of the Morse Key acts like a sounding board, making the click of the contacts seem louder. I was thinking of maybe sticking the baize (it's self adhesive) directly on to the slate, and then not using the rubber feet, not sure what you think of that idea?

The Morse Key is still work in progress after about 10-15yrs of owning it. I might get it set up as I like it one day

And I still cannot think where the metal based one is, but I have an idea it was in the original Kent box, so I'll have another look when I have more time. It's bugging me now trying to find it when I'm sure it's there!

73, Mark...

 

[MI0PYN]

Also, I need to redo the bottom of the base. The wooden based ones have a metal plate covered in green 'baize' and then held on with small rubber feet (or at least the ones here do). I found in the past that if the Morse Key is standing on the feet the entire base of the Morse Key acts like a sounding board, making the click of the contacts seem louder. I was thinking of maybe sticking the baize (it's self adhesive) directly on to the slate, and then not using the rubber feet, not sure what you think of that idea?

I suppose that this is why they went with the steel base as I've not noticed that. You can definitely hear the clicks, but the base doesn't seem to resonate and amplify the noise any. The rubber feet are required as they allow clearance for the cable and cable clamp under the rear of the base. I guess if the wooden base on it's baize was sitting on the desk it wouldn't resonate, but then you'd have to machine rebates for the cables and contact fixing nuts. The baize might also slide across the desk more easily.

I'll look forward to seeing the slate base one, especially how the cables and contacts at the bottom are done.

 

[Ham4CW]

I suppose that this is why they went with the steel base as I've not noticed that. You can definitely hear the clicks, but the base doesn't seem to resonate and amplify the noise any. The rubber feet are required as they allow clearance for the cable and cable clamp under the rear of the base. I guess if the wooden base on it's baize was sitting on the desk it wouldn't resonate, but then you'd have to machine rebates for the cables and contact fixing nuts. The baize might also slide across the desk more easily.

I'll look forward to seeing the slate base one, especially how the cables and contacts at the bottom are done.

I was puzzled by the comment about allowing room for a cable clamp, but after looking arount the web I see what you mean. It looks as though Kent made even more versions of their straight morse key than I originally thought!

Both the wooden based one, and the slate based one here have binding posts on the rear of the base to attach the wires. The slate based Kent Morse Key is the older of the two, it has the high pivot mount and taller contacts we were talking about. The wooden based Kent Key has the later versions of these features and sits much lower on your operating desk. Both have binding posts.

I can't remember what the metal based one has/had, it's been a few years since I looked at it, or have even seen it around here!

I really must find it out...

The only two Kent Morse Keys I have that do go directly to wires without any binding posts are the Kent Two (I think that is its name), which has both a twin paddle key and a straight key on the same metal base. The other Kent Morse Key with directly wired leads is their Single Paddle Morse Key.

Nothing to do with Kent, but of a similar idea, I have an LTA twin also, which has one of their twin paddle keys and a basic straight key on a wooden base. They look OK, but there is no where near enough weight in the base to prevent it skidding around the desk top. The owner I purchased it from obviously had problems with it, as it arrived with about half a pound of bluetak stuck on the bottom of the base!

I'm really bugged now about where the metal based Kent Morse Key is

73, Mark...

 

[MI0PYN]

Binding posts on top of the base, of course! Now you mention it, I had seen that somewhere, but didn't twig that that would obviate the need for the cable to run under the base...

Having a thick day here

 

[Ham4CW]

Binding posts on top of the base, of course! Now you mention it, I had seen that somewhere, but didn't twig that that would obviate the need for the cable to run under the base...

Having a thick day here

I've had those for over fifty years

Yeah, the wooden based one has one large cavity hollowed out for all of the wires. The slate one uses 'channels' through the slate. I guess it would use up a lot of cutters at the Kent factory if they hollowed the slate key base out as much as the wooden ones. The wooden one is quite roughly done, as though it was taken out using a hand held tool rather than an automated machine. The top surfaces are machined though...

 

[MI0PYN]

I suppose that's also not helping in the weight of the base if they've removed so much material, although if they removed more material and put some customisable chunks of "heavy stuff" in instead, it would allow you to adjust the weight to your own preference.

Very interesting stuff, thanks for sharing.

 

[Ham4CW]

I suppose that's also not helping in the weight of the base if they've removed so much material, although if they removed more material and put some customisable chunks of "heavy stuff" in instead, it would allow you to adjust the weight to your own preference.

Very interesting stuff, thanks for sharing.

You did it again!

In the wooden one they added two strips of metal (in the Kent Morse Key that is), but the LTA ones I couldn't say, it has a cork base glued on so you cannot get in to the 'guts' of the key...

 

[Ham4CW]

Here's the base of the Slate Kent Morse Key...

 

[Ham4CW]

Something I hadn't noticed until now is that the wooden based Kent key has holes through the binding posts , but the slate based one doesn't.

Here's the Kent Two Morse key/s and a photo of the LTA equivalent...

 

[MI0PYN]

I don't know how practical they are, but I really do like the look of the combined straight key and paddles, will have to keep an eye out if any become available second hand at the right price...

 

[Ham4CW]

I don't know how practical they are, but I really do like the look of the combined straight key and paddles, will have to keep an eye out if any become available second hand at the right price...

The Kent one uses two seperate leads that are independant of each other, but the LTA one 'shares' two of the three wires (across the 'dit' circuit, so on a stereo jack plug it would be the tip and ring).

The Kent key/s are heavy, but the LTA one is fairly light. Also, the Kent Morse Keys have the usual 'solid' feel to them in use, whereas the LTA ones are VERY light to the touch, especially the paddle key. If you have got used to using a Kent Paddle Key the LTA one might seem too light, almost as if it is about to fall apart with very weak springs.

You find though that after a bit of use you soon adjust to the different feel.

Reading around it has been suggested that the two key 'system' evolved to allow CW operators to go from sending fairly briskly with the paddles, to sending much more sedately with the straight key.

 

[MI0PYN]

The Kent one uses two seperate leads that are independant of each other

That's pretty neat, especially if you use an external keyer with memories, or a win-keyer or something. You can leave both the straight key cable and the keyer output cable beside the radio and leave it on straight key input, saves having to switch between iambic and straight key, you just swap the cables to switch between them. I like that, and it should even be possible to change that even further to a single lead to the rig and a toggle switch to switch between the keyer or straight key input.

 

[Ham4CW]

...The wooden one is quite roughly done, as though it was taken out using a hand held tool rather than an automated machine...

I was just looking at my comments on the wooden based Kent Straight Key, and it struck me that when I took the photograph of the one here the base was actually machined out very professionally. I also noticed that it is in an elongated oval shape, whereas the one I was thinking of had a rectangular cavity.

Whilst I was looking through the leaflets supplied with these keys (in kit form), I noticed that the drawing of the base shows a rectangular cavity. It has occurred to me, and from what I can recall from my 'emporium days', that Kent used to sell their Morse Key kits with a variety of options.

There were the steel based ones, the slate based ones, wooden based ones, and one final kit that was sold without a base. All of the hardware and fittings were supplied, but not a precut pre-machined base. There was however one of these leaflets with the drawings/dimensions and drilling information to allow the kit builder to make their own. And as mentioned above, the cavity shown was rectangular, so maybe that's where I had remembered the roughly hollowed out bases from.

Who would have thought there was so much variation in one Morse Key from one manufacturer!

73, Mark...

 

[Ham4CW]

Finally got around to fitting the wires in the base of the Kent Morse Key. This slate based one originally had enamelled copper wire, so I have fitted it out with the same type.

When I aquired the key the wires projected below the base so it was impossible to put the key flat on a hard surface. The wires now sit in the bottom of the machined grooves, and nothing protrudes downwards. The wires are soldered on to solder tags, but this does not show up very well in the photo.

I did intend to finish this off with some self adhesive green or black baize, but I might now consider leaving the wires exposed and mount the key on silicone feet instead.

Also trimmed and refinished the bonding strap that connects the bearing support to the arm of the key.

 

[MI0PYN]

I was interested in the additional strap between the bearing block and the arm on the top of the key, is that original? I ask because my KT1 doesn't have it and seems to work fine with conductivity of the steel bearings without this additional strap.