Best Beginner Morse Key?

[camerart]

Hi,
After about 4 years trying, I think I can remember all of the letters and numbers, so now to practice and get better timing.

I  wanted to be a purist and use my straight key, but does anyone think that for a late comer, an Iambic key would be better especially for timing?
Camerart.

 

[Ham4CW]

I thought some of the other members of the forum might have chipped in with a comment or two by now, but it seems not. :-X

Jumping back a stage, I would always recommend that anyone learning Morse gets as much receiving/decoding practice as possible. Although listening to hand sent Code is the ultimate aim, I sometimes wonder if learners might be better listening to 'perfect' Morse sent by either a dedicated Morse Tutor, or from a PC/mobile device running suitable programs.

A good deal of Morse off-air I've found is very 'sloppy' on the timing these days, plus you will get folks that try to put their own stamp of the thing, imagining that their style or fist shows them to be somehow 'special' or cleverer than other operators. To my way of thinking the further someone deviates from perfectly timed code the more difficult it becomes for anyone else to decode it.

The argument used by such operators that if you were experienced enough then you would be able to read their 'offerings', and that YOU clearly need more practice to 'come up to their level of expertise'! ;D

If you listen to perfectly timed Morse on a regular basis you find that when you then start to send, if you listen to what you are sending you will spot the timing without even trying. Mistakes, or rather deviations from the norm stick out like a sore thumb.

It's well worth recording the Morse you send while first learning, and then listen to it played back, not necessarily straight away but a short while later (to give you time to forget what you sent and in a way then force you to actually read your own code). This can prove a real eye opener at first!

OK, moving on to your original question, I really don't think that using an electronic keyer is that beneficial, since you need to know what good code sounds like AND be able to send well timed Morse yourself, without relying on any 'aids'.

Bug keys and paddle keys+keyers do allow an operator to send faster, everyone has a limit on how fast they can manipulate a key (no matter how much practice they undergo), but you should not need to rely on them to correct your mis-sending.

Something I hear a lot on air is folks using keyers to blast away at ridiculous speeds, but they still have really crappy timing when it comes to spaces between letters and words. You hear what seems like one long stream of dits and dahs without any recognizable gaps to speak of. If they were actually listening to what they were sending AND instinctively aimed for perfect (good) timing, then such garbage would not leave their antennas! :

So always aim to send Code with as perfect a timing as you can muster, always listen to what you are sending with a critical ear, and beyond that it will not matter whether you are using a ?1000 straight key, some super-mega keyer and paddle, or simply touching two bare wires together, as you Code will always sound excellent at any speed.

There are no shortcuts!

73, Mark...

 

[gm5bkc]

I agree that practice listening to well sent Morse is the best way to learn good timing for sending it.  If you were in the US I would say to listen to the W1AW code practice transmissions on the air every day. 

I don't know what is available to listen to on the air in the UK.  There are plenty of computer programs for generating code practice, though.

From my own experience starting out sending with a hand key, then going to a bug and then an electronic keyer in just a few months time, I would recommend starting out with an iambic keyer paddle and an iambic keyer.  You don't have to learn iambic (squeeze) keying technique right away, but the keyer will force you to send characters correctly however you manipulate the paddle.

I hear lots of really poorly sent CW on 20m every week by people using straight keys on the part of the band frequented by the SKCC group.  Yes, there are some that send almost perfect CW but most are pretty bad.  I hate to say that about a Morse code organization, but I just am not a fan of LEARNING to send CW initially with a hand key.

I really believe that learning to send first with a keyer will teach you much better timing, as well as regular listening practice.

You don't need a top-of-the-line keyer paddle, but I would not recommend getting one of those really cheap 3D-printed plastic ones, either.  Something with a decent feel and some weight to the base is best.  I'm not a fan of the Bencher style paddles, but again I don't know what is available for a reasonable price in the UK.  Maybe the Kent Twin Paddle is reasonable?  Other than my Jones Key PK-200 bought in 1992, I have bought all but one keyer paddle 2nd-hand from ham swap lists.

Glenn AE0Q

 

[Ham4CW]

You don't need a top-of-the-line keyer paddle, but I would not recommend getting one of those really cheap 3D-printed plastic ones, either.  Something with a decent feel and some weight to the base is best.  I'm not a fan of the Bencher style paddles, but again I don't know what is available for a reasonable price in the UK.  Maybe the Kent Twin Paddle is reasonable?  Other than my Jones Key PK-200 bought in 1992, I have bought all but one keyer paddle 2nd-hand from ham swap lists.

Glenn AE0Q

Hiya Glenn.
Unfortunately in the UK many of the paddle keys seem to sell for silly money (as in ridiculously high) for what they are material wise. Possibly the Kent Twin Paddle key is about the cheapest to buy as there are many of them on the second hand market, plus you can still get them new either assembled or in kit form.

Bencher paddles are about the next most common ones, both the BY-1 and BY-2 models etc. There is also an MFJ one (MFJ-564) that looks very much like the Bencher style keys too.

I have a couple of MFJ travel/portable paddle keys (MFJ-561), and they work just fine (though they do lack any adjustments).

There's not too much on eBay at the moment here other than one Kent Twin Paddle key. The other paddle keys from the UK all seem to be Chinese copper/magnetic paddle keys. I think it's a case of keeping your eyes open or else ask around and see if folks have got one to spare (I've given a few keys away to members on here).

Having just had a look at Nevada Radio's website https://www.nevadaradio.co.uk/category/amateur-radio/morse-keys/ they seem to have enough paddle keys at reasonable prices.

73, Mark...

 

[OC71]

I have no answer for the OP but I am in a similar situation and, after much thought, I have decided that, at one point, when the moment comes, I'll start learning both a straight and paddle key. Ideally, I'd like to try a cootie/sideswiper but the prices are unbelievably high for such a simple device.

 

[camerart]

Hi All,
I've been practicing for 3-4 years now, and since last week I can go through the alphabet, and numbers.

After chatting to some proficient keyers, a year or so ago, they also said listen, but at a high speed, so I copied some text into an outputter, at 20WPM into an MP3 player, and after a while I could keep up.

I have a straight key, but find it quite difficult to key anywhere near accurately, so last week I made an Iambic key out of a relay,here's a photo, with my QCX.  Yesterday I got through the alphabet and numbers on it, and it's quite good for practice, and to get the feel of things.  It's getting more enjoyable also.

My call sign is M0HEH, and this lends itself to the keyer, and I can get it on the screen after a few goes, early days yet though.

Cheers, C.

 

[Ham4CW]

I have no answer for the OP but I am in a similar situation and, after much thought, I have decided that, at one point, when the moment comes, I'll start learning both a straight and paddle key. Ideally, I'd like to try a cootie/sideswiper but the prices are unbelievably high for such a simple device.

I've been collecting keys for years, of any type, and I find that they are all much of a muchness after trying out so many makes and models.

About the only thing that does become apparent is that it is less effort to send with a paddle/keyer combination than if just just a straight key alone.

However, straight keys are generally very reliable, with much less faffing about to set them up, or having key batteries fail on you, and so on.

You can generally set the tension and gap slightly higher when wearing gloves in cold weather for outdoor use. Paddle keys can be difficult to use in extreme cold if you can't feel your fingertips, you tend to accidentally key the device.

A good number of rigs these days have decoders built in along with a keyer, and they tend to lend themselves to paddle users possibly more so than straight key op's.

Mechanical bug keys, such as Vibroplex, can be a bit odd to use after playing with paddle keys and keyers. I find that I forget the fact that I have to form the dahs manually, and so I end up sending really long dahs until I realise my mistake! :-[

If I practice with a mechanical bug key for a while though it becomes more natural to manually form dahs, but then if \i swap over to a paddle key I keep trying to form the dahs manually instead of allowing the keyer to do the timing for me! bh

Cootie keys are a thing on their own. I have two cootie keys, an LTA one, and a very old Bunnell model. The LTA one looks nice but is awful to use (it does not self centre well), the Bunnell one is very crisp and works fine. However, unless I spend ages with them I find that all I produce code wise sounds rubbish. Because you can have dits or dahs either side (and changing constantly as you're sending), it all ends in a world of confusion for me! So for me the cooties are just for the collection and not to really use them.

I've also found over the years that some of the 'stars' of the key world, the much sort after expensive ones, turn out to be awful to use, and yet some of the supposed cheaper garbage ones have turned out to be real gems and excellent to use.

73, Mark...

 

[camerart]

Hi B,
Last night I was on my local 2mtr net, where the controller is a Morse expert.  I had previously practiced my call sign on my key, and recorded it (take 14) I asked him about A and B settings, but he doesn't know, and said he doesn't bother with technicalities.  Then he said "We had better not keep talking about Morse or the others will get bored as there aren't many of them that do it" So we stopped.  Next week I'll mention belatedlly, that if they're bored, there on the wrong net.

I don't know the difference with all of the keys mentioned, but really I don't need to know, as I made this one as an experiment to see how they work. 
1/ It seems to work pretty well, and I'll practice a bit more, till I think it needs modifiying, then tailor it to my hands, with more robust keys etc.
2/ I also have an idea where two keys are pressed, like piano keys, one hand or two hands? IN or OUT of your pockets!  I'll mull ideas over till I choose which one I'll try.
3/ No keys, but electronics and gaps for 'say' a finger to wave in.
See if I come up with anything?  I'm sure it's all been done before, but as my last post, I won't check, but just go on feel.
Cheers, C.

 

[Ham4CW]

... so last week I made an Iambic key out of a relay,here's a photo, with my QCX....

My call sign is M0HEH, and this lends itself to the keyer, and I can get it on the screen after a few goes, early days yet though.

Cheers, C.

That's a neat little item! It's got me thinking about some of the relays and contactors that get scrapped off at work, very often the contacts are fine (and quite large too).

At least your callsign has a lot less dahs in it than mine, I get bored sending mine! I would have loved a G3 or G4 callsign as they have a nice rhythm to them.

73, Mark...

 

[camerart]

Hi M,
In a relay, let's call the stiff ones the anvils, and the moving ones the hammers.

The centre anvil, needs to have contacts both sides, or put two hammers back to back, then I found stiffeners in mine, but a stiffener each side so the centre anvil is stiff, then an insulation each side, then both hammers.  I could put a bolt through the insulation, to clamp it all, and you have one iambic key.  Good fun
C

 

[Ham4CW]

When I've looked at using relays in the past I've always been thinking in terms of having the two outer contact arms 'fixed', and then using the middle double sided arm as the moving one (so as to produce a single paddle key in effect).

But that idea of yours is actually far better! I guess it would be quite easy to glue some 'buttons' on to the outer arms, or maybe use some self adhesive 'feet' as in the MFJ-561 and 561K.

Some of the relays in the scrap WEEE waste here are large, heavy duty beasties, well worth having another look through using you idea bd

73, Mark...

 

[camerart]

Hi B,
Previously I mentioned that my mate from my amateur radio club is a Morse expert, but doesn't know much about Iambic keys.  He was in the navy as a signaller.  He hasn't had his Iambic key long, and as a simple man, he just got the key going.  It's possible that he only taps the DITs and DAHs and doesn't use the Iambic features, I'll check when were out of lockdown, so I should have said "very proficient at Morse"

Regarding keys: While learning Morse digits on my set-up, I'm getting the feel of how the paddles work.  I can feel my 'key' has limitations, and will change it by adding what I feel to help.  If I follow the same feelings as others, I should end up with the same design as the others.  I also would like to try no key, but use light or capacitance as the key.
C.

 

[Ham4CW]

I think I've mentioned before that I have a few 'iambic' twin paddle keys, but I never use them for iambic sending. I never mastered that method of sending, having said that I've never tried to master it (I found it confusing).

Apart from which I could possibly send faster than I could receive Morse as it is, without upping the speed even more! ;D

When you say "use light or capacitance as the key" do you mean have a 'key' that you do not make contact with at all?

I've seen touch capacitance keys (in fact I have one), and I vaguely remember seeing an optical key (using proximity detectors for the keying system). But in both cases you still needed to make contact with the key to trigger them.

Maybe it would be possible to use a 'light gate' as a non-contact key?

Some other ideas I've seen over the years include breath activated keying (you had to blow down a tube), there was one where you could hum or say the Morse (it was a bit like a modified sound to light trigger), and a design that used three keyboard keys, one for a single dit, one for a double dit, and one key for dahs. It was called a "Triambic Keyer" (I think it was a Practical Wireless design, but also a version was published in RadCom).

Lots of things to try eh? ;D

73, Mark...

 

[MI0PYN]

I have found that using a straight key means I do not tend to send faster than I can copy (which is not fast). I like the Kent Two I have and do try to practice with it, but the Kent KT1 and the small Belgian Military key I have get used more.

Personally I find that I get a better rhythm on the straight key (although I still suck) and the simplicity of a basic straight key appeals to me for portable operating. I have yet to see a small double paddle for portable use that doesn't cost a fortune. I am still kicking myself that I didn't buy one of the Palm Mini or Picos before they ceased production. Now they're pretty much impossible to get (at a reasonable price). Begalis are also nice, but eye wateringly expensive.

 

[camerart]

Hi M,
With a straight key, what speed can you achive?

I have a straight key, and was using it before the Iambic (relay) one, and I find as a learner, for timing the Iambic is faster and better timed, which helps me learn.
I use a QCX transceiver, that shows the digits on a screen.  If 'say' DIT E is keyed in quick succession, then E will show on the screen.  If it is timed correctly, then the word EEEEE is shown, the Es show close together, but if separate Es are wanted, then timed correctly, E E E E E will show, and if timed correctly then IEI will show.  The spaces are difficult at 20 Words/min, which is what I'm practicing at.  I've only been using my key, for a week, and I can look away, and tell if I've keyed correctly, so it is sinking in

Regarding my next key:  Instinct is telling me that positivity is most likely to be the winner, so proximity ideas, will be later if at all.  So two bearinged paddles with a positive feel.  I imagine as before, opposite may be best, so you can spring from one side to the other.  Each paddle would have a movement, and a fulcrum, so the other end could move more or less that the key end.  Optical encoders are very accurate, so a fine part of the paddle could pass through and switch each side ON/OFF 'light gate', which could be dustproof.  I'll go with this first.  I'm going for light and portable.

Do you have a radio with a Morse screen?  My Iambic key is set to A (I've got to look into this sometime) and try yours again, unless you prefer the straight on.

C.

 

[camerart]

I have found that using a straight key means I do not tend to send faster than I can copy (which is not fast). I like the Kent Two I have and do try to practice with it, but the Kent KT1 and the small Belgian Military key I have get used more.

Personally I find that I get a better rhythm on the straight key (although I still suck) and the simplicity of a basic straight key appeals to me for portable operating. I have yet to see a small double paddle for portable use that doesn't cost a fortune. I am still kicking myself that I didn't buy one of the Palm Mini or Picos before they ceased production. Now they're pretty much impossible to get (at a reasonable price). Begalis are also nice, but eye wateringly expensive.

Hi M,
What speed can you achive?

I've read that some of the keys have soft contacts, so they seem good at the begining, but need constant adjustments, so I want lots of practice before I buy.

As you can see, I'm experimentling, while learning, which makes is interesting.  You can see what I'm up to as I go along.
For the above latest idea, I have all of the parts here, but of course a better design before it is started gives better results.

I'm pretty sure that the 'experts' I mentioned previously, will give me lessons on the air.  He used to teach me, when the club was open.  I'll get a bit more practice and confidence before asking him though.
C

I have asked a question on another forum, regarding contacts, so I'll start another thread here two.

 

[Ham4CW]

...I have yet to see a small double paddle for portable use that doesn't cost a fortune. I am still kicking myself that I didn't buy one of the Palm Mini or Picos before they ceased production. Now they're pretty much impossible to get (at a reasonable price). Begalis are also nice, but eye wateringly expensive.

Hiya Stefan.
I managed to buy two Palm Radio Pico Paddles (from various sellers), before Palm Radio closed down, but even then they were not cheap. The 'normal' sized twin paddles they produced were not cheap either. I had one a few years back from a seller on eBay, and then more recently I purchased one from the SK estate sale of G3RJV via the G-QRP club (who were selling assorted items on behalf of his XYL).

I've purchased magnets for all of the keys that did not already have then fitted. Both the Pico and Mini versions are nice little keys, but not the easiest of things to adjust 'in the field'.

I've mentioned before on here that the MFJ-561 (or 561k) are quite reasonable keys for the money. There's not much to adjust on them, but I have two of those keys and they both work fine. Certainly not flashy looking, but functional all the same. They sell for around ?20-?30 or so.

Not sure about the Begali ones. Did you mean a portable/mini key, or one of their full size keys?

73, Mark...

 

[Ham4CW]

Hi M,
With a straight key, what speed can you achive?

...Do you have a radio with a Morse screen?

I haven't measured the speed in a long time. My sending speed with straight keys varies with the key itself. Some straight keys seem easier to send with than others. I'll have to test myself one of the days. I have an old AEA Morse Machine that can decode Morse, but better still it can give a speed readout.

Not sure what you meant by your other question. I have a QCX (like yourself) that can display decoded Morse, but I do not have any other rigs with 'Morse Screens' on them.

73, Mark...

 

[camerart]

Hi M,
With a straight key, what speed can you achive?

...Do you have a radio with a Morse screen?

I haven't measured the speed in a long time. My sending speed with straight keys varies with the key itself. Some straight keys seem easier to send with than others. I'll have to test myself one of the days. I have an old AEA Morse Machine that can decode Morse, but better still it can give a speed readout.

Not sure what you meant by your other question. I have a QCX (like yourself) that can display decoded Morse, but I do not have any other rigs with 'Morse Screens' on them.

73, Mark...

Hi M,
The straight key, I have is an old brass one, and not very portable.  Compared to the one I made, and as a learner the new one is far more accurate and a lot faster.  It could be the difference between me ever getting one the air with Morse or not.  With the inbuilt timng, it acts like a metronome, and helps my timing.

I'm discovering things each time I 'play' with my key.  C for example is one right pinch, (right, being pinch with the finger first) DAH,DIT,DAH,DIT  Time will tell?

I asked 'the other question'  on another thread, regarding the current that the key needs to switch the radio.  I have now found out that it is approx 250uA.  I will try keying with Opto interrupter sensors, as a no contact method of keying. (No contact cleaning)
C.

 

[MI0PYN]

I've mentioned before on here that the MFJ-561 (or 561k) are quite reasonable keys for the money. There's not much to adjust on them, but I have two of those keys and they both work fine. Certainly not flashy looking, but functional all the same. They sell for around ?20-?30 or so.

Not sure about the Begali ones. Did you mean a portable/mini key, or one of their full size keys?

73, Mark...

I'll need to have another look at the MFJ one. Thanks for the reminder about that one.

On the Begali keys, either the Expedition or Magnetic Traveller keys which are of a size to be able to use them portable, start at ?250 + shipping, with additional upgrades offered for bases etc at further cost. That's too expensive for me, especially when they may well be battered with outdoor use.

I still like the little Belgian military straight key which is in my /P box.